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AUTOMATIC AQUARIUM WATER CHANGES… STARTED! | The King of DIY

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  1. If you have a single loop around your tank room with take-offs for each tank's solenoid valve, you can reduce the piping requirements dramatically. To control temperature, you run a full loop back to the heater so you can always have water at appropriate temperature at all times.

  2. How are you going to control how much water goes in, you’re going to need some sort of shut off valve so you don’t overflow everything and then you can make sure it fills up as well.

  3. Hi Joey, big fan. Keep up the great work. Quick question that I don't remember you mentioning in the 100 or so vids I've watched – what is the TDS level of your well water? We have a well (TDS ~1200, PH 8.4) and it has been tough going for my fish despite weekly changes and a lot of effort. Curious to hear your water quality.

    Thanks!

  4. OMFG, love the fish room!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    just starting out and have a 32 and 46 blow front in my office but I already want to do some stuff. Thanks for all the mazing videos.

  5. Hey bud, just a thought on your 2" drain line instead of worrying with capping the line throw a check valve onto the end. That way regardless of what happens you don't have to worry about your tanks flooding inside! Also if they are cheap enough I'd consider throwing a check between the pumps and the main line so that you don't have any back flow into your other systems accidentally! The junction fittings are a great idea, and I've forgotten to do that once, no fun the first time I had to dismantle the whole setup just to clean my lines out lol. now that being said I'd recommend you look into putting a ball valve or butterfly valve on both sides of each junction so that you can isolate one tank setup at a time to keep from spilling out any overflow while you have one disconnected. Price wise I dunno the feasibility but it'd be nice to have if you did need it

  6. If I was you I would get insulation for the water lines (should be very easy) and run it through the roof. But I'm sure it will turn out great no matter what you do

  7. Even though I'm supporting waaaaay less fish and water than you…i travel a decent amount. I've been planning something like this for myself. Even though you don't need it, can you cover adding filtration for chlorine and chloromine as well? I'm not saying but it and install it…. But give your recommendations for parts, system design, sizing per gallon, etc?

    I'll be building this winter

  8. I used a system like this. Instead of clear tubing, use a pvc manifold funneling into one solid tube to transport water to all the tanks. Also for draining the tanks, drill in the pump chamber of the sump and put a bulkhead. As fresh water is added, the water in the pump chamber will rise and drain out automatically. You’ll never have to close it and it’ll keep the water level constant

  9. HELP PLEASE, I changed my substrate and caused a spike in ammonia (even though I have 2 established canister filters) , I'm using prime while I solve the issue BUT I found out my tap water has ammonia in it also, so when I make the water change I'm also pumping ammonia in it!! now what???? will my good bacteria have enough time to re-establish the tank?? thks!! help please

  10. I really like this idea !… And i get you have a well for water so no dechlorinators are needed before new water hits the tanks. But you have discus and angels that need (gH soft) water and with a lower pH and on the same water change system as alounocaras and tropheus that need (gH hard) water and a higher pH so im wondering how you will over come this issue ? … will you buffer the malawi and tanganyikan tanks after the water change ?

  11. I'm curious.. I have large tank (I say large, it's only 120gal,) anyway I was wondering, would it be possible to have an overflow in the sump that lead directly to outside, but have a drain pipe directly from the outside to the inside so that fresh rain water does my water changes? It would have a couple basic sponges/strainers to stop it getting clogged with outdoor gunk, but that was my idea. The only issue being heating but I figured if it flowed into the sump and got heated there before going to the tank it would be ok?
    Virtually free with the exception of pipes, what do you think?

  12. The omly problem i see is sometimes electronics fail what if you run electric valves then it all of a sudden drains your tank one day while your gone out of town

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